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JAT ReviewLet viseMiles & More

A City with Changing Appearance

The turbulent history of Germany’s capital city may be followed through many monuments of culture. The modern way of life, however, has imposed on its residents a different pace, given rise to avant-garde urban-scaping architectural and artistic solutions, and created a wonderful urban harmony mixing past with the future.

By Spomenka Jelić Medaković
Photo by Miša Ognjanović

Statistical data says Berlin numbers third as a tourist attraction among European capitals – following London and Paris. As many as five million tourists visit the city each year. Small wonder then that the capital city of the Federal Republic of Germany has over the past 20 years continually changed its appearance. Thus, travellers can see and experience something new every time they visit.

Although a large portion of the city was destroyed during Allied bombing in 1945, and although it was under a blockade of sorts from 1948–1949, and was divided into East and West Berlin in 1961, the city succeeded in preserving its beauty. Regaining its position as the capital city of a united Germany – it enjoyed the status of capital only in East Germany, while the state administration of West Germany was in Bonn – Berlin launched its big overhaul. This large-scale face-lifting focused primarily on East Berlin, where Soviet troops were officially stationed until 1989. The date of the disappearance of the city’s 'imposed’ division ( i.e. 1990, when the unification of Germany took place), or simply "the wall" as it was known, also marked the beginning of the fall of a certain kind of regime throughout Europe.

The process of renewing Berlin continues to this day, and the city is therefore thought to be Europe’s largest construction site. Architects here liberally try out their modernist concepts, as it is quite acceptable in Berlin for an avant-garde edifice to be located next to a historical monument. Thus, next to the ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church – following extensive polemics whether it should be torn down – emerged two new structures between 1959 and 1961. The first is an octagonal church, and on the other side, a hexagonal steeple in the same style. Potsdam Square also changed its appearance as a series of avant-garde structures were put up – first the Sony Center, a gigantic glass building. The new main Railroad Station is a similar modernist structure as is a series of other buildings.

Berlin, whose name is first mentioned in chronicles in 1244, despite its repeated destruction, continues to preserve and re-new its cultural legacy. One may begin touring the city’s cultural and historic monuments from the famous Brandenburg Gate, erected in 1791 at the site of an earlier structure of the same purpose. The Gate is famous for the Quadriga, a chariot drawn by four horses driven by Victoria, the Roman Goddess of Victory. This signature sculpture rests on top of the gate, facing west since 1989, while preceding unification of the two Germanys it looked eastward. In the immediate vicinity is the Reichstag – the impressive building that houses the German Parliament, built in 1884 and which was a Nazi symbol during World War II. Following extensive damage from bombings in 1945, the building has since been restored. People queue up in front of the Reichstag building to view its interior, especially the new glass dome from where Bundestag (parliament) sessions may be viewed. The new section of the Bundestag is attached to the Reichstag building with a glass encased walkway spanning the street. A bit further down is the seat of Germany’s federal chancellor – a completely modern building that Berlin residents call 'the washing machine’, as its appearance resembles this household appliance.

At this facility, artists and art historians especially value Eduardo Chilida’s 1999 sculpture called Berlin. From here the path leads along the Congress Hall building, which is today the House of World Cultures (which Berlin residents have dubbed 'pregnant oyster’) and the Bellevue Castle that accommodates the residence of the president of the republic.

One of the main tourist attractions is the Berlin Cathedral – a church built in the late 19th century in the Neo-Renaissance style. It is located on the large Museum Island (Museumsinsel), which has been on the UNESCO cultural sites list since 1999. The five museums on this island house great treasures of world art history. While in the area, one may also tour the DDR Museum, on the quay of the Spree River, that holds a variety of objects and authentic interiors from the former Germany Democratic Republic (GDR). Not far from this point, souvenirs from the country that disappeared with the fall of the Berlin Wall are sold on the sidewalk. Once across the Palace Bridge (Schlossbrücke), one easily finds one’s way to a highly interesting and significant Berlin city section – the State Opera (Staatsoper), the National Library, the Humbolt University, the Memorial for Victims of War and Tyranny, and a series of other interesting structures.

Special time should be set aside for visiting the oldest city quarter – the Nikolaiviertel – with a church devoted to St. Nicholas, first built in the 13th century but reconstructed on several occasions.

The crowning of King Friedrich the First in 1415 marks the beginning of the long history of rule by the Hohenzollern Dynasty, during which many majestic palaces were built. The residents of Berlin are currently trying to 'revive’ the spirit of this dynasty in various ways. The dynasty’s largest palace is the Charlottenburg Palace (Schloss Charlottenburg). The palace and spacious baroquestyle garden – taking its name after Queen Sophie Charlote – "is the keeper of the Brandenburg-Prussian court from the time of the Baroque era to the turn of the 20th century." Most of the palace was restored following the Allied bombing of Berlin. Today, some 450,000 tourists visit this palace each year. The Berliner Residenz Orchestra evokes the atmosphere of bygone times; the band members in Baroque-style garments perform concerts here. For the 2010 New Year holidays, a "Friedrich the Great" type of dinner was held at the palace’s Orangerie, followed by a concert. The hosts made sure the 'menu’ for the occasion was in the same style: a Faberge-style salted egg side-dish, black root salad and fish from Hafel served in shells, pheasant in strudel dough with quince preserve, Ruebeck’s delights. The concert’s programme featured works by the Mozart and Strauss families.

Tourists may also experience the spirit of history at the Peacock Island (Pfauneninsel) on the Wannsee Lake. The island got its name after the peacocks brought there in the 19th century. Today, the island is protected by law as a cultural landscape. On the west side, King Friedrich Wilhelm II in 1794/5 built a white wooden castle with a romantic bridge connecting the two towers. This was supposed to have be a love nest for his lover Wilhelmine. She even took part in decorating the interior. However, the king became ill and died soon after and the castle was used by the next generation. This remarkable wooden structure miraculously escaped damage during the bombing of Berlin so that the entire interior is original. The castle houses many treasures and works of art. Among other things, there is a fine portrait of the very popular Queen Luise (1776 -1810), a table used for social gatherings – the so-called 'tunnel and coliseum’, original porcelain made by the KPM (Köninglische Porzelanmanufaktur), still operating in Berlin on Sophie-Charlotten-Strasse.

Souvenir – Wall


A special event was organized in Berlin on November 9, although side events have been staged in the past year to mark the 20th anniversary of the fall of the wall that divided the city and Germany into Western and Eastern bloc. The wall was 3.20 metres tall and more than 150 kilometres long. Today, bits of the Berlin Wall may be bought as souvenirs in specialized shops or museums. The most attractive section of the wall that still stands is the so-called gallery with murals. And, the most popular mural is the historic Kiss between Brezhnev and Honecker.

Jat Airways depart from Belgrade to Berlin on Mondays at 8:30 a.m., Wednesdays 8:05 a.m., Fridays 3:20 p.m. and Sundays at 4:05 p.m. Return flights are scheduled on the same days at 11:10 a.m., 11:00 a.m., 6:00 p.m. and 6:45 p.m.

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